Belizean sunrise

Friday 30 December 2011

Christmas Season 2011

Christmas 2011

I was here at Easter 2011 and thought that week was crowded...wow, Christmas was worse. It's the busiest tourist week of the year, and of course the highest rates at resorts, some as much as 3x the regular rate. In my opinion, at Easter there are more locals' relatives and the inland Belizeans that come to the beach areas. At Christmas the crowds are mostly N. American and European tourists on 'holiday' (in the USA we call it vacation). You can easily spot the tourists – white-skin with the partial sunburns, designer beach wear, and guide book and maps in hand. They're a welcome sight for those who depend on them for their living though. This is when many locals make their money – souvenir and art shops, tour operators, restaurants and snackeries, and even selling food and 'junk' (err...I mean souvenirs) on the street. No license needed.

There is only one street into Placencia and with all the pedestrians, bicycles, and golf carts, there isn't much room for cars. I've never seen the street so busy. I drove into town once and it was crazy. I could have walked faster. And with delivery trucks parked on the side of the street it is crazy. There;s no loading docks, no back entrances, etc., they just stop in front of the restaurant or store.

Then there is the famous Placencia 'sidewalk' – it parallels the road about a block east. The sidewalk was supposedly constructed many years ago out of crushed conch shells and a homemade concrete. It was how the fishermen moved their catch thru the village, so I've heard. Now it's a tourist attraction and an alternative walkway through town. Tourists walk less than a mile on the road and then back along the sidewalk. You've seen it all by then. There's no side 'streets'. Yes, there are some narrow concrete sidewalks and some wide dirt paths connecting the road and sidewalk but only a few of them are maneuverable by cars. Most beach hotels and restaurants/bars have signs on the main road directing you down the right path.

It's not just Christmas season, they also celebrate Boxing Day here. That's a whole other deal started by those nutty Brits and celebrated by most former British colonies like Canada and Belize. It's a national holiday normally celebrated Dec 26th - but since Christmas fell on Sunday the official Christmas Holiday is the 26th so Boxing Day is moved to the 27th. Bottom line – they have 3 days of 'holidays' – Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Not much to do in town, although many restaurants and shops stay open some of those 3 days since the tourists are here. They have to make their money somehow. But the banks, phone company, and some grocery stores are closed. There are 'rules' on alcohol sales too but few know what they are, and besides, who's going to 'enforce' them. There's not much of a police department let alone an ATF-like or liquor-board presence in town. There's not even vendor or health dept permits needed to sell anything, just roll out a blanket on the side of the street.

Of course, kids are out of school for a couple weeks so they're everywhere every day. When they're riding their new Christmas scooters, bikes, skateboards, etc. down the middle of the street they have the right-away. It is, to be sure, their town. The neighbors' 5 grand kids, all under 8, got a small 2-foot high pool and were out in it early the next 2 days after Christmas. They never got it filled up since there was so much commotion in the pool they kept knocking the thin aluminum walls down which let all the water out. It now sits collapsed in the yard probably never to be used again. The birds and dogs drink up what little water is left in it.

I drove into town today (Wednesday) (yeh, I know, it's not that far but it was hot and my truck has a/c.) The street wasn't too crowded. I guess some of those damn tourists are gone.

The phone company (BTL, Belize Telemedia Limited) has been closed 3 days and I had to buy a new chip (SIM card) for my lost phone (yes, the 2d one I've lost this trip). The new phone must have fallen out of my shorts on the beach Christmas morning after I tried calling Kelly and my mom and dad. And we all know that no one would ever try to return it somehow. This chip I had 'registered' with the phone company when I bought it in November but there was no way to contact BTL for 3 days. Remember, the 3 days of holiday closures.

So, I bought a new chip (replacement is only $11) and they deleted the old one – but not until someone had used up $15 worth of my credit on it. Sighhhh. Then I had to go through the hassle of ordering another cheap cell phone from the same company in Belize City, go to the local bank and pay into their account, then call them back for them to check online for the deposit after which they will put it on the next flight out. Another $30 for the cheap phone but only $1.50 for delivery. (The only ones for sale here locally are $150-200 ones.) I got the same guy in Belize City and the price had gone up after Christmas but he gave it to me for the same $30 price, but not without a good chuckle. I can't blame him.

Oooppps...I just heard the plane coming in (airport only a mile away). Better hurry to get my new phone – they close 10 minutes after the last plane lands. Then it's too dark...our little airport has no lights. Sighhhh. But it is quaint here.

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